Back on track! Yea soap makin'

It was the month anniversary since we left home yesterday! In some ways it feels as though I’ve been here longer, but in even more ways it feels as though I’ve been here shorter.

My project is back on track-even still on schedule! Things seem to be working out beautifully and I hope they continue to go this way. This week is by far my busiest week since I’ve been here. I have to get all the materials for our soap making training and for our first batch of soap! The training is tomorrow and on Wednesday we will be making our first batch of herbal soap. It should be interesting and fun. Then Thursday I will be working to put the finals touches on my grant (turned in the draft last Friday) and turning in my final draft this Friday.

I am unfortunately starting out this week exhausted from a long day yesterday, but I’m going to try to get a lot of rest tonight after collecting all the materials today.

Last week was also busy, but I got everything done that I needed to which was nice. I treated myself by going with a bunch of the other interns to the amazing swimming pool at the Nile Resort all day Saturday. It is so beautiful there! Poolside food service, swim up bar, tiled pool, comfy lounge chairs all over-looking the Nile-I was in heaven. We all got burnt, which we’re blaming on the Doxy medicine that we’re taking as malaria prevention (definitely not because we didn’t wear sunscreen),but it was lovely. I was also happy about Ghana’s win!

Sunday (yesterday), I went to a baptism and a baptism party in Kampala with my mom. It was Jap’s mom’s granddaughter’s baptism. They know how to throw some parties here! Complete with DJ’s, bounce houses for the kids and more food and drink than you could ever imagine. It was fun-I was just tired after getting up at 6am to leave for Kampala and not returning home until 10:30pm last night.

Oh! Last Wednesday night we had the opportunity to go see traditional Ugandan dancing by the Ndere Group. It was a blast. The dancing was insane, I have no idea how they can move their bodies the way they do.

All of the other Northwestern interns got here yesterday (26 of them!) so it’ll be fun to meet the new interns and have some new faces around the TASO office (4 are working there).

Okay well, I need to finish up this work on my grant, eat some lunch then head back to TASO to meet up with another one of the Ugandan interns who is coming with me to buy stuff from the market (otherwise I’d be getting the Mzungu price for everything which is no good from my tight budget!)

I'll post a few pics later since it doesn't seem to want to work today.

a rant

This post might be incredibly offensive to some for which I apologize, but it’s how I feel. You can write your own blog about it if you really disagree. But hey, I may even end up deleting for the sake of neutrality.

Very early on I noticed the difficult divergence between the foreign visitors here in Uganda. I feel as though I either completely agree with the purpose of a person’s visit, or that I could not disagree more. Almost every white person here is here for one of two reasons, to work with a non-profit/volunteer or to do missionary work. There is very little in between (aside from researchers). So when I see other foreigners here I either feel an instant connection, or a slight annoyance.

I was sitting in a café finishing up my first draft of my grant proposal, when I was distracted by a neighboring group’s conversation. This was far from the first time I overheard a group of missionaries discussing things that seriously bothered me. Like when I was in the bookstore in Kampala and I overheard two people trying to convince their friend that she was doing good Christian work here in Uganda. She replied how she believed she was unable to relate to Ugandans because she felt they do not show or have emotions…I left the store seriously pissed off, because not only could I disagree more (Ugandans are some of the most fun-loving, happy, kind people on the face of this earth you’d have to be socially inept to not connect with at least somebody here) I was pissed that people like that girl have the opportunity to come here, when so many amazing people do not. Not to mention how bad I feel for the Ugandans that have to interact with her, I would not have wanted to spend any more than the 5 minutes I did near her. Or like right now for instance, three girls are discussing how they are worried that the kids they are going to interact with won’t accept their teachings about the Bible and how they’re going to pray for the kids that do not. Sure we both might be “mzungus,” but I could not relate less to majority of the missionaries here.

I am not saying I am entirely to opposed to all missionary work, but I feel that many of the missionaries’ good intentions can actually result in more harm than good. Religious groups that come to serve and work with the Ugandan people under a certain church are very different from those that come solely to spread their religion. I honestly do not think there is much of a place in Uganda for those coming to spread their religion-ethical arguments aside-I mainly feel this way because Uganda is already an incredibly religious country, bringing more religion is not really needed. Many Ugandans do not even understand if you are non-religious-everyone is generally either Born-again, Protestant, Catholic or Muslim, but Uganda has almost every religion here-Judaism, Sikhism, Mormonism. People go to church or temple, but they do not have running water, sanitation, a stable food source-why would you come here to continue to tell them to go to church or temple? So, I do not really understand what brings groups of foreigners here to continue to preach to Ugandans about religion. Didn’t the colonizers and traders do that decades ago? The whole “spreading religion” business here is done, now pick up a shovel and work with a family to dig the household a pit latrine.

what can i say? imma Jinja kinda gal

A lot has happened since the last blog, so I’m going to try to squeeze as much in as possible before boring you.

My project has had a bit of a rocky start, but after a difficult week of planning I think things are coming together. Communication between the group and I has proven to be very difficult. As I said only two of its 22 members speak some English and so last week was full of miscommunication and misunderstanding, not ideal when trying to get a project off the ground. But, things are working out none the less with help from my supervisor and the FSD Site Team. As a result of last week’s issues, my budget is late (along with some other activities in my work plan), so the project is getting moving later than I had originally anticipated. And since I’m behind on last week’s work, finishing my grant proposal by the end of this week is sounding like a daunting task, but one I am more than willing to take on. I hope to be able to get things back up to speed this week, and if not, we’ll keep on trucking. This soap making business is happening, whether the odds are with us or not.

Now, onto the weekend! I woke up feeling a bit ill on Friday, so I planned on just staying in Jinja instead of heading to Kampala. But, I miraculously got better on Friday evening and was able to leave with some of the other interns to Kampala (the capital) on Saturday morning. KAMPALA IS INSANE. Haha, no but really. We arrived in the afternoon and sat in traffic for about an hour. When we got off the coaster (a larger taxi bus), we had to find our hotel, so we weaved through hoards of people at the old taxi park trying to find it. I felt like I was going to be run over by a boda or a taxi every time I crossed a street. The sidewalks are crowded and there is tons of exhaust and dust in the air which gets into your eyes. I could not imagine taking a boda boda at that time, and I’m glad that we didn’t because we read later that there is an average of 5 boda deaths (not just accidents) a day in Kampala.

While I was busy asking a vendor where Williams Street was, a woman warned Jap that a man was behind her stealing stuff out of her backpack. Thanks to the woman, he ran off before he was able to get anything. It shook us all up a bit because we’ve heard plenty of horror stories about mzungus getting robbed in Kampala, but we definitely did not cause a scene when it happened because they practice mob justice here. Basically meaning that if Jap would have yelled and told people that the man was trying to steal from her, it’s very likely that he would have been caught by others on the street and killed on the spot (often by beating or burning). So, although we don’t want our stuff stolen, if it happens it happens, no material object is worth having someone killed.

We soon found our hotel with the help of the vendors and then headed to check out some of Kampala’s shopping malls. We went to Garden City and Oasis Mall. There were huge supermarkets, bookstores, clothing stores and upscale cafes. I definitely experienced some reverse culture shock, it was very intense to be in such a bustling city after the slow life in Jinja. It was mind blowing how different life was in Kampala in comparison to the people living in villages only kilometers away. Although the same disparities exist in the States, it was interesting to see how they exist in Uganda as well.

The next day we went to see the Palace of the Buganda Kingdom and the beautiful Gaddafi Mosque. The palace is on a huge plot of land on Mengo Hill (Kampala was originally built on 7 hills). On the same plot of land is a torture chamber that Idi Amin used to torture and kill Indians or others who opposed his rule. Under Amin the cells were bound by electric doors and outside of each door was water that was electrified as well. There was also a holding tank of water that was filled with crocodiles. His torture and murder tactics were incredibly harsh. Regardless of his ruthlessness, our guide Robinson explained that many Black Ugandans liked Idi Amin more than his predecessor and successor Milton Obote because Idi Amin acted out of his deep love for Uganda and its native people, whereas Obote is not believed to have had the same passion for the country. Under Obote much more people died, including a lot of Robinson’s family members.

The Mosque was absolutely amazing. It was the first time I had ever set foot in a mosque, and it was quite humbling. The elaborate paintings on the ceilings were some of the most beautiful I have seen.

The only thing that Kampala does better than Jinja is the food! We ate well in Kampala. Having some authentic Chinese food at Feng Fengs and some cold pasteurized milk in my coffee at Café Pap was really satisfying and a nice change.

After visiting the Mosque we walked back to our hotel (the first time we were able to find our way through the city without having to take a taxi) and then headed home to Jinja. I’m really glad we went to Kampala, but Jinja is definitely the place for me. Slower, quieter, calmer. I was more grateful when I was woken up by roosters this morning.

　

Inmates wear yellow in Uganda

I’m finding it hard to believe it is already June 15^th! Time here moves slowly during the days, but then I look at a calendar and realize I only have 8 weeks to get my project started (and hopefully finished) and I wish I had more time. The good news is I have a solid project figured out-it’s just time to get started (which is actually much more difficult than it sounds).

I met with the group that I am working with in Myenga and all I can really say is WOW, the people are amazing. Myenga is a very small area, and the twenty two of them have come together to “Live positively” with AIDS. They support one another in everyway possible whether it be emotionally or financially. The majority of the group is women and most of the women are widows trying to raise children with little, to no income and even less energy from the effects of HIV/AIDS. Hearing there stories was sad, but empowering-they’re using all the resources they can to survive and even thrive against incredibly tough odds. Communication is difficult since only two members speak some English and I was a little disheartened when the only thing a group member said to me was “I wish you spoke Luganda.” But, I trust that we will all find ways to communicate and that we can make some even more positive things happen for the group. Someone in the group proposed making soap as the IGA for the group and the rest of the group members caught onto the idea quickly, so there you have it-We’re makin soap! So the next step is finding a local soap maker to train our crew, finishing up my work plan and budget then starting my grant proposal. Lots to get in done the next few weeks, the slow unreliable internet and difficultly contacting people make it a bit stressful, but I have a lot of faith in our group and in our project!

Now for story time! I had a good giggle yesterday when I was mindlessly walking through the field I take to get to Main St (where the cafes and shops are) from work. I often look down when I walk around here because there are lots of humps and things sticking out and I don’t want to trip or stub my toe(even though I do anyways). So, I’m walking through the field, spacing out, looking at where I’m walking when I suddenly look up because I see about 40 men in bright yellow clothing rushing towards me on both my right and left sides. I naturally start to get a little nervous, but seeing as how I have not run into a single bad person yet, my instincts were also telling me that I just needed to stay gracious. The next thing I know, the men line the pathway (on either side) and start saying “hello, how are you?” like how most people greet here. But each man begins reaching out his hand for a hand shake, so I found it a little odd. I continue walking forward while shaking their hands and greeting them, still a little confused, but trying to take it in stride, when the last man whose hand I shook decides to caresses my entire left arm, with the rest of the group laughing. That’s when I looked around and realized the men are all wearing matching prison uniforms while doing work in the field. They all kindly said goodbye as I continued to walk forward, laughing to myself.

I’ve also been watching the World Cup like crazy! It’s much more fun here because everyone is so into it. And just for the record I’m rooting for any and all African teams (and the USA when we’re not playing an African team). We stayed at Backpackers (a mzungu hostel) and watched the UK v USA match with a bunch of British people which was fun, until it was another tie…

Two other funny facts: I drink more soda than I have ever have in my entire life here since they’re cheap, cold, fizzy and sweet (and they don’t really have candy or chocolate here so it’s acting as a replacement). And I watch La Tormenta poorly dubbed in English like every night with the fam, since Ugandans love their telenovelas. I want to hate it, but some dark, terrible place within in me that misses American reality TV really likes it.

Anyways, I have lots of work to do, I need to stop using my internet time on blogging. We’re going to Kampala this weekend which I’m excited about! Can you say shopping?!! Haha

And I know I should spread the pictures out tosave them for little surprises every once in a while, but I just can’t help myself, so here's another. This guy hangs outside the butchery every day. There's tons of these birds eating garbage and looking sketchy all over Jinja, but they never bother anyone.

The Source of the Nile, a great place to get ripped off

haha! Yea so Jap, Bianca and I went to the Source of the Nile, pretty much one of the biggest tourist attractions in Jinja because it is where Lake Victoria feeds the White Nile, which eventually meets up with the Blue Nile and runs all the way up through Egpyt (90 Days later).

Luckily we had Jap with us (the best barter of the century), so we didn't get ripped off too much, but it was definitely not easy to get a fair price for the boat ride. The guy tried to charge us 20,000 UG schillings for a 20 minute boat ride...that's a little under $10 US dollars, a major rip off. I'm wary of anything over 10,000 UG sch here, unless its a hostel, rafting or clothing (sometimes). I just exchanged money today and the exchange rate was 2,200 UG sch for $1. A soda here is generally 1,000 UG sch, a boda ride is about 500-1,000 UG sch and a meal of Ugandan food is about 3,000 UG sch. It's the mzungu internet cafes that get you, but I pay the high price for the foods I miss, like the 3,5000 UG sch piece of banana bread from Flavours or the 8,000 UG sch chips and guacamole from The Source.

Anyways, here are some pics! We saw monkeys for the first time :)

Flood?! haha! "How sad..." "That's unfortunate..."

Yes, so my last name is officially the laughing stock of Jinja-well that’s an over exaggeration…mainly just my work and home. But as soon as people find out that my surname is Flood they immediately burst into laughter (like the entire conference room full of TASO Staff) and then make comments about how unfortunate my name is. Anyhow, I enjoy it and find it humorous as well-never has my last name received so much attention. And now many more people at work say hello since they all know the intern with the funny/sad surname.


I realized that I should probably explain where I am working and what exactly I am doing here in Jinja. Our program is through the Foundation for Sustainable Development (FSD), which is based in San Francisco, but has sites all around the globe. FSD has a site team here in Jinja which consists of Program Director Margaret and Program Coordinators Jonan and Eunice (they’re all Ugandans, so aside from helping us with our families and work, they help us adapt to the culture and tell us where the good spots are for eating etc) FSD then connects each intern with a host family and an internship with a local NGO. I am working with The AIDS Support Organization (TASO) for the next 9 weeks where it looks like I will be working with a community group of HIV+ women and men in a nearby town to come up with an income-generating activity (IGA) that the group can do to ensure their food security. I have already met and talked to the group leader Monica and I am headed out to the town tomorrow to meet with the rest of the group, complete the needs assessment and possibly begin the asset mapping.


Living with my host family and working with TASO have already been very meaningful learning experiences. I have really enjoyed my family so far, they are wonderful. We have a lot of good laughs together. At work I have had the privilege of getting to know some of the other interns who are students at the nearby universities, which has made work more fun. We share stories and talk about the differences between our home countries. In a fairly intense conversation yesterday, I learned that HIV+ Ugandans are not really allowed to leave the country. If a Ugandan wants to fly to the United States, they have to get tested for HIV/AIDS first and if they are found to be HIV+, they are not allowed to fly. Yet, all the 8 of us from the States had to do was buy a plane ticket to come-no tests, just optional vaccines. It's disturbing that we can just freely come to Uganda bringing with us whatever diseases or illnesses we have, but a Ugandan who is aware of their status, cannot fly to the United States. Although the law is illogical, I unfortunately find it somewhat unsuprising, it's a very American approach.

still not annoyed with being called mzungu yet

I've officially been gone for a week now, so I figured I should blog, but like the previous times, I of course have decided to write a new post with only 10 spare minutes to write. I guess that's how I like it. So once again it will be unpolished for which, I apologize.

I met my host mom today! She is very sweet, we had some good giggles over a delcious lunch at Japjit's home in Njeru this afternoon. She is good about explaining the cultural differences (like how she ate with her hands) to me because she has had two other interns. She is a retired nurse whose husband died two years ago...oddly like my family in the States. I think we will get along well. I am yet again at another mzungu cafe, I swear I'm gonna start going to local places- I am going to try to get our group to go tonight.

I'm rushing to go to dinner...there is so much more to say ahh! I also went to my host organization yesterday, TASO. One word-AMAZING. The office is massive, somewhat intimidating but more motivating to work hard and stand out :).

Okay I should really go-the whole "Africa time" idea has not proven to be true, we've been late, but it's not acceptable haaha.

okay peace yall(just for patrick are one male FSD intern from Houston)